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Carb cleaning, rebuilding, and detailing...
...|...Overview...|...Cleaning/Rebulds...|...Disassembling...|...Detailing...|...Examples...|...Rates...|...
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Cleaning:
The first step in teh cleaning process is opening up the carbs, removing the jets, atomization tubes, sliders, extraneous linkage such as stay plate and actuator arms before the dipping process. Sometimes there are tarry, gummy, or even mineral or oxidation deposits that must be cleaned first before the carbs can be dipped the first time. Once the majority of the gunk is removed the carb bodies, sliders, and other components are dipped the first time. Often they will sit in this dip for 2 to 3 hours, but on occasion are left overnight if the deposits are severe. There is no quick fix unfortunately as using extremely agressive chemicals to remove filth and deposits will also remove some of the good metal. When they have soaked long enough the are removed, rinsed thoroughly with very hot water and the passages blown clear with 150psi using special tips to insure everything has been cleared from the passages.
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On rare occasion it has been necessary to run some components through a mild acid bath to completely remove depostis or corrosion. I am not a fan of muratic acid as in my opinion it is a little too agressive. The solution I use is somwhere between citric acid (say lemon juice) and the popular muratic acid. Components are dipped only long enough to remove or loosen the deposits. The rest is done with a very soft mini rotary wire brush or by hand. The components are rinsed in hot water again, then run through the cleaning dip one more time before the final inspection and re-assembly is done. If just a cleaning is all the customer has elected to have done the carbs are re-assembled and adjusted to factory specifications (idle mixture, float levels, static/bench synchronization).
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If alternative jets are supplied these are installed during re-assembly. I always contact the customer when damaged or unusable components are found and offer the option of obtaining the components on their own or having me track them down. In many cases I have spares. Not all carb racks can be cleaned or economically rebuilt. Badly corroded or physically damaged carbs are one example. Often a customer will provide a spare or "parts" set to be used in the process, but this is more labor intensive and qualifies as a rebuild and not just cleaning.
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Rebuilds:
The rebuild process requires a little more time and labor than simply cleaning the carbs and includes the installation of rebuild kits. All components provided in the kits are replaced which involves some additional disassembling. I can order kits or install kits provided by the customer. I do not mark up kits and charge only what they cost me to order them in. This can range from as little as $10 per carb body to as much as $25 each depending on the casting numbers and year of the carbs. If I am to order kits this is added to the cost of the rebuild. Same as with cleaning everthing is set to factory specifications before they are returned to the customer. Some parts do not come in the kits such as the fuel T o-rings for the 71-76 carbs. These I order in seperately and keep on hand. I do not mark these up either. I charge only what it costs me to bring them in. Matter of fact, I do not mark anything up, but essentially act as purchasing agent on your behalf.
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...|...Overview...|...Cleaning/Rebulds...|...Disassembling...|...Detailing...|...Examples...|...Rates...|...
...|...Tech Tips...|...Bikes...|...Home...|...
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